4/22/2021 0 Comments Volvo D12 Fault Code List
If fault codes related to the emission system are registered, the Check Engine lamp on the instrument panel is lit.Earlier Bosch LH 2.2 and Turbo cars until 1990 had very limited self-diagnostic capability using an LED tester.
In LH 2.4 cars, If a system fault occurs, then the check engine lamp will illuminate, signifying the presence of a fault code. Volvo D12 Fault Code List Series DLs AndFor every model year using LH2.4 up to and including the 95s (except 200 series DLs and GLs), you can flash out fault codes, as well as perform input and output testing, through the OBD-I diagnostic connector unit simply by inserting a little self-contained probe and pressing a button. As electronic systems were added to more Volvo models, more socket options and even more diagnostic connectors were added. Earlier cars have only one unit (A); later cars have two (A and B). Diagnostic connector A contains the test terminal probe (the wire mounted on the side of the box in the picture) used in both A and B along with the test button and the LED readout lamp. In diagnostic connector A, socket 1 is for the electronic transmission (if your 960 or 90-series car has the AW3040), socket 2 for fuel injection or Motronic, socket 3 for ABS, socket 6 for ignition and socket 7 for the instrument cluster. If the 1992 car is so equipped with connector B, socket 1 is for the climate control, socket 2 for cruise control, socket 5 for the SRS and socket 6 for the memory seats. As a result, you need a computerized scan tool to do everything from checking for codes to resetting the maintenance light. Maintenance light resetting, by the way, was returned to a push-button method in the very late 90s. All other systems except 1990-93 SRS require a proprietary tool. For 90 to 93 models with air bags, just jump a terminal to ground to get codes out of the system. While it is possible that there is no signal TO the diagnostic unit, it is just as likely that either the connection in the terminal, or the connection TO the unit from the ECU computer, is bad. You should try cleaning those connections, and if necessary you can jiggle the connections until you DO get proper readings. Ive never had it where I wasnt able to at least read codes and reset the computer, although sometimes it was when I was squeezing the connections into the diagnostic readout unit, or jiggling them around. While your problem could be the ECU, more likely it is corrosion or a bad connection, especially if the engine is operable. Chris Mullet When I could not get the LED to illuminate, it turned out that the LED itself was burned out. If you have an ohm meter to test continuity, you can pop the unit open and check out the LED, resistor, button contact, etc. Be careful as there are a couple tiny springs that can go flying when you open it up. SMALL SPRINGS ON EACH LEG OF THE BUTTON Luckily, I had a magnet handy. On both the bottom of the button and down in the test unit itself, are the contacts. Mine were filthy. Dremel, reassemble, and all is well. If you have the Bosch LH2.2 or earlier systems, you do NOT have OBD capabilities and will have to diagnose sensor and performance problems using traditional manual techniques. This diagnostic system is located behind the drivers side strut tower in the engine compartment with a readout box with several functional modes. A and B; the former is used for engine diagnostics and ABS; the latter for SRS and cruise control.
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